down under here

Saturday, April 28, 2007
down under here
Current mood: peaceful
I have been back from Australia for 5 days. I am continually amazed by the world, though I am currently only exploring only a small part of it.

I arrived in Sydney, Australia on April 3 and immediately took a train to Newcastle. Dylan, an Australian friend from my Swiss exchange student days, picked me up and we walked along the beach from for a few hours, talking, catching up, and enjoying the sunny weather and beautiful day. We stayed in Newcastle for the night and left early the next morning for Byron Bay, further North on the East coast (about 7 hours further!). The next few days involved swimming in the beach, beer drinking, and seriously good music. We had tickets to 3 of the 5 day Blues and Roots Festival in Byron. My ears were literally still ringing a week after the concerts… some of the acts included Joss Stone, Paolo Nutini, AYO, Ziggy Marley, Bo Diddley, Gomez, ALO (where Jack Johnson showed up as a surprise!), Terrance Simien and the Zydeco Experience, the Roots, Ozomatli, Amos Lee, Fat Freddy's Drop (a kiwi band I had already grown to love), Paul Kelly, Xavier Rudd, John Butler Trio, and more… My senses were flooded with sounds of good music and rain and sights of thousands of people and mud.

Rainy first day at the Bluesfest:



I stayed with Dylan's family in a cabin in Byron Bay, and though the weather turned on us, it did not spoil the fun. The company of good, down-to-earth people and the music of very talented artists made the rain merely an afterthought, a background noise and physical explanation of the soundtracks in our heads.



hordes of people, and dirty feet...




After Byron we headed to South West Rocks, about four hours down the East coast, to "luxury" camp (seriously) with Dylan's mom's cousin's family. They surfed, we swam, snorkeled, and jumped off bridges… I went scuba diving at one of the top 50 places in the world to dive (top 5 in Australia) and scared myself a bit… perhaps all the talk of sharks and crocodiles and snakes and bears and all the other scary animals in Australia? (none of the above mentioned, except sharks, do they have in New Zealand) Had a great time nonetheless.



Camped right on the beach, heard the tide slowly roll in or out at night, manifested by constant waves and the sounds of nature- wind blowing the tent, rain pounding on it, all to wake up in the morning dry after a good nights sleep!



luxury camping at it's best (such a good time): Keira and Kate prepare dinner.



View from the lighthouse at South West Rocks.






Kangaroos in the wild!




After 5 days we carried onward back to Newcastle for a night and then to Sydney for an Australian Football game, a visit to the aquarium, wandering the city through the Harbour Bridge and the Opera House to find them perfectly shaped around the light of the night.



Harbour Bridge and Sydney Opera House at 1am...





Met up with other exchange students and felt like we picked up where we left off in 2002… told stories about how we'd become the people we were and realized how shaped it was by our collective experience living in a foreign country, with a foreign language, at 18 (or younger).



I stayed in Sydney at a hostel for a few days on my own after saying goodbye to Dylan, Keira, and Nathan, who I had spent the last two weeks with.

I then met up with the Watsons, family friends of my stepmother who I'd never met but felt just at home with. We went to the zoo, Fitzroy Falls, Bowral, Robertson, Berrrima, and many other surrounding and coastal towns around Sydney.



I love this side of the world.

I returned to New Zealand feeling like I was coming home… back on Tuesday, did a skydive on Wednesday, hike the Tongariro Crossing on Thursday (the best day hike in the world, so they say… ) and off to Wellington on Friday.



beautiful views and volcanoes...





It's now Saturday and I'll be off to Nelson (where I lived and worked for 5 months) tomorrow. Then I'm heading South for the winter and I think I'll freeze my arse off! But, I'm excited. Skiing and winter (which I haven't seen for a year and a half) in a crazy town… can't complain, and I won't.

I'll be back in August sometime… until then… doing everything I can, checking off the NZ to-do list.

It's a good feeling.

still wide eyed

Sunday, April 01, 2007
still wide eyed
Current mood: excited
Category: Life
I am not done here.

I am constantly in awe of this amazing place. New Zealand has such diverse landscapes and so much to offer, I feel as if I have only scratched the surface even after 7 months (has it been that long already?).

I have learned that when the weather is bad and you're homeless, life gets a bit more expensive... I've been on the road for 3 weeks touring the South and then North island in my own car... I have spent a majority of those nights in my tent and a majority of those days seeing as much as I can. Wandering and seeing the sights by day, sleeping under the stars at night. Torrential rains which would later be dubbed "the worst storm in 50 years" hit and had me rethinking my route, my activities, and my sleeping arrangement. The hard and constant rain drove me right into a hostel for 3 nights where I met cool travelers and played cards and put together puzzles. It was really nice to relax a bit (funny when a hostel is luxury) but I found myself wondering when I could again commence my left-side-of-the-road driving again. After 2 and a half days of constant down pour the sky opened up, became blue, and was even sunny and hot within a few hours.

I jumped outside quickly with a few new friends to explore Cathedral Cove, which can only be done at low tide. The next day I hit up hot water beach on my way out of town and I have been loving being on my own. I feel so free with a full tank of gas!

I have seen a lot and know there is more to see. I leave tomorrow for Australia for 3 weeks for good music (Bluesfest in Byron Bay) and good company before coming back to New Zealand to finish out my work visa (they may have to kick me out of this country!)

I'm not good at keeping in touch- as told to me by Martin, who's English but lives in New Zealand. I laughed as I thought about what my loved ones on the other side of the world felt! I'm working on it, but priorities are to see and do and that's exactly what's on my agenda.

I'm now in Auckland (survived city driving!) and the sun is setting on the sky scrapers and the large city brings strangers around me who look familier.

Here's a recap of the last few weeks:

"Official" last night out in Nelson:



Montieth's Brewery Tour in Greymouth




Brooke and I ended up sleeping at the old man's house... such kind people!

Hokitika WildFoods Festival (people eat anything from cow nipples to worms to fern shoots...wow)



Glaciers (Fox and Franz Josef)






Camping on the beach



Wanaka, Queenstown,

Mt. Cook,



Lake Tekapo




Christchurch, Kaikora... Camera battery running low at this point so not so many pictures to show for it unfortunately...

St Patricks Day back in Nelson at work:

Wellington with Martin and Clare:




Gannet walk (largest mainland nesting place for Gannets) near Napier:







Huka Falls in Taupo with a walk to spa park and natural hot pools:






Natural thermal wonders and craters in Rotorua:





Dance parties, dress- up, and easter egg coloring with 4 little girls in Tauranga (where I lived for 2 1/2 weeks at beginning of time here)






Traffic jams on the Coromandel penninsula




Cathedral Cove with new friends (only available at low tide)







Hot Water Beach (dig pools to sit in water that is 100 degree- natural hot pools again... only done at low tide)



lots of driving...




wow... so much more to learn.

Monday, February 12, 2007
this is my life
Current mood: tired
The cicadas are singing so loud I can't hear what's supposed to me motivation coming from my headphones, but I keep running anyway.

The sweat rolls down my back and opens pores on my legs and it is summer.

The clouds open and the sun shines on my into the gorge, blazing and hot; my sunscreen won't protect me from my fear of finishing.

My thoughts wander as I put one foot in front of the other and I think of how my muscles will thank me later.

The sun beats down as my feet beat the pavement and I realize: this is my life.





It occurred to me as I was running that I had done everything wrong to train for the half. I no longer had a buddy (friend of mine I was supposed to run it with backed out- lives too far away now) to talk out training and most days having a staff drink while meeting new people sounded nicer to me than going for a run. Two nights before the race I went out drinking for a friend's birthday until 3am. I didn't have my salvation army sweatshirt to keep me warm before the race which I wouldn't care about losing when the weather warmed up. I didn't carry toilet paper or put on bug spray, I hadn't intentionally trained for hills, I didn't carry a gel pack to eat for energy mid-way through the race. I didn't drink a mocha or eat a normal breakfast- I ate an apple and was hungry before the race even started.

The race ended up being a steady uphill with a few downhills instead of the race in Fort Collins which was a steady downhill with a few uphills.

With all that stuff done wrong, everything was still fine. I'm still going to be more sore tomorrow than I woke up feeling today, but my actual fear of running and finishing and succeeding what sounds so difficult has diminished.

Brooke ran the last 5 kilometers with me and having her there for the home stretch was just what I needed. It's amazing what we can get energy and motivation from. Steve was at the finish line with a "YAYY ABIGAIL!" poster. I didn't feel like I was ready to collapse at the end (how I felt last time)- I felt fine. Tired, but fine.






It was different not having my parents there to cheer me on, help me prepare, and buy me lunch afterwards… =) but my life is different here, and I hope they get to come and see that too.

The owner of the restaurant where brooke and I work (House of Ales) said he would sponsor us if we wore our work shirts. Brooke: "How would you sponsor us?" Barry: "I could pay for your gas to get there. Bring me pictures and receipts." We're holding him to this.







I didn't even think I could run at the beginning of all this. Thank goodness for motivation and challenges.

I've come a long way baby. (13.1 miles to be exact)

2 hours, 11 minutes, and 54 seconds is the official time...

The rest of the weekend was spent on the beach in Westport and Punakaiki, a fur seal colony at Cape Foulwind (strange name…haha), a hot tub at the hostel, the Pancake Rocks and Truman track (track leading from highway through rainforest to pretty isolated beach), Nelson Lakes National Park, Barrytown's (supposedly) jade beach, and cafes with (mainly) good food.

Yes, this is my life.




I am quitting my job on March 7 to leave Nelson and make a road trip around the South (and eventually North) islands. Until then I'm working to make enough to afford the travel... should be a damn good time.




No idea when I'm coming home...

Tuesday, January 09, 2007
four months and counting
I can't believe I've been here over four months. It seems hard to imagine that it's both that short and that long as I sit in my flat with my semi- established NZ life.



In March I will quit my job and travel for the next two months- seeing everything I have not yet seen, before returning to the states after a short stint in Australia on my way home. I'm not really sure what home I'm talking about returning to, but am bound to find a new one in the next place I settle. Until then, it's work, work, work to save up for traveling while also camping and hiking and exploring on my days off.

Brooke's here! A friend from my exchange student days in Switzerland has joined me in New Zealand, also here on a work visa and living in Nelson with me. I honestly did not know how happy I'd be to see a familiar face. It's been great getting to know each other all over again (we haven't lived in the same place since Zurich 5 years ago) and realize how we've both changed and grown, all the while still getting along great.



I recently bought a car which has given me a bit more freedom to see the area and the country- which I'm really happy about. I went camping in Golden Bay about a month ago and the breath of fresh air and beautiful views were fabulous!



I drank good beer, hung out with friends Steve and Brooke, had a campfire on the beach with makeshift s'mores (tastes a little different with different materials...), and slept in a tent while the wind and rain beat at the sides of the tent.



The stars are absolutely amazing down here- the southern lights... away from the small cities they are abundant and beautiful. The perfect backdrop to a warm summer night.



Christmas just passed and it was very enjoyable. I felt myself (often times since I've been here actually) having to really think about what month it is- it certainly did not feel like Christmas with the weather being so warm! I've lost track of time… It's summer here and I have been enjoying it so much but it has also confused me a bit! I kept thinking it was April or May, then realize that that's impossible since I got here when it was still August.


I worked at the restaurant on Christmas Eve and it was absolute mayhem (also not making it feel like Christmas...!) We were so busy and everything was a bit chaotic. They had the city put on Christmas carols that night right by where the restaurant is located- so when I stepped into the warm night to serve people, I was suddenly surrounded by literally hundreds of people singing silent night with lit candles in their hands. I didn't get home until 1:30am and my feet and body and brain were so tired that I slept as soon as I lay down.

Christmas day brought a mimosa, French toast, and fruit salad breakfast with 3 other friends of mine (also here on work visas, away from their own families). The day was beautiful weather- really hot! We ate yummy food and headed straight for the beach with snacks, lunch, and beer in tow.
We stayed for a few hours, got sufficiently sunburned, I swam in the ocean, and we headed back to my place for hanging out and movie watching until dinner time.



We had a fabulous meal (lasagna, salad, garlic bread, wine...) and when Shaz and Nora decided to head home from tiredness- Brooke and I decided we weren't ready to give up on Christmas and headed to a party thrown by some friends of ours. Things turned a little chaotic late into the night, but we all had a great time.




I have a half marathon in the Buller Gorge on February 10th and I'm pretty nervous about it but excited as well. Nelson's "sunny" stereotype has not lived up to it's name in the last few days and has left me with nowhere to run in the rain! Hopefully that will end soon so I can be ready for that and whatever else comes my way.

Life is good. There are many things I have yet to do here. I don't know what will come next for me but I don't worry either, I just enjoy the moments that I have while I am still lucky enough to have them.

ready to run

Friday, December 01, 2006
ready to run
Current mood: calm
Category: Life
this is where i live now. Nelson, New Zealand. It's on
the coast in the middle of the North end of the South
Island...


I've since gotten a job and a flat and had some good
times. i attended a halloween party (not sure why some
celebrate it here, but i guess it's a good reason to
dress up and have a party)

I also had a work training day- we tasted the new menu
and then went to the "grape escape" - a vineyard
nearby to drink good wine and hang out (all on the
owner of the restaurant's tab!)
These are the crazy people I work with:






and i even made it on the House of Ales website!
www.houseofalesnelson.co.nz to check out the gallery.

I work with really great people and enjoy it most of
the time... i think i will never go to another
restaurant to eat with the same perspective again!


I had a thanksgiving dinner with some friends of mine here- a couple americans along with some kiwis- 12 of us in all. It was pretty much awesome. We pulled it off and had an awesome time cooking, eating, and drinking. Turkey, stuffing, potatoes, apple and pumpkin pies (my contribution), green bean casserole, rolls, the works.



it was awesome.


I've decided to run a half marathon here in january
and already have a dutch friend training with me. It
feels good to run and be outdoors and the weather is
starting to warm up for the upcoming summer season
which makes running so rewarding.
Here's my running buddy and me:


many times i run past this phrase on the sidewalk:






and it may just be graffiti, but it helps me believe
and gives me motivation to keep on running, believing,
and living!

i've met some really great people and really feel at
home here. it's a beautiful country with many nice,
down to earth people.
attended quite a few "barbies" (BBQs) and am making a
place for myself and continuing to learn something new everyday.

here i go...

Sunday, October 22, 2006
here i go...
Current mood: happy
Category: Life
it was 2 days in Nelson before I had a flat, 2 days before i had a job "trial" at a swanky restaurant/ bar, and it took 2 days the last time i was passing through Nelson to realize i wanted to stay here a while.

i now have 2 cool kiwi roommates, and 2 feet that continue to carry me from place to place.

so. the point is: i have a job, and a flat, and life is good.

look right, then left

Thursday, October 12, 2006
look right, then left
Current mood: grateful
Category: Travel and Places

i have arrived. this may just be the longest blog ever... skip to pictures if you're not amused.
a couple facts:
new zealand is the most geographically isolated country on the planet. australia, it's closest nieghbor, is 2,000 kilometers to the Northwest.
there are more sheep than people here- 4:1 ratio, and more like 15:1 during breeding time.
what's been going on on this side of the world:

i arrived in christchurch and set up a bank account and got a cell phone and got ready to start my life.


then i left for punakaiki (maori for "pancake rocks") where my cell phone had no service and 38 people lived in the town so the only thing i spent money on was the internet (no rush to get that bank account after all!).

i am wwoofing in new zealand (that is, willing workers on organic farms). it's a program where you work 4 or 5 hours a day in exchange for room and board. the work is not necessarily farmwork- it can be painting, babysitting, working in hostels/ accomodation type places, gardening, household maintenance, etc.

in punakaiki i was working at a hostel- the actual site of pancake rocks was 3 kilometers from where i was staying.
ran to pancake rocks at 6am one morning- still getting over jet lag- 3k one way- all along the oceanside and got caught in the rain on the way back. awesome.
it was a 5 minute walk in a rainforest to the beach. took a moonlit hike during the full moon with two other wwoofers. we walked the 3k to see the pancake rocks under moonlight, and because it was higher tide we could actually see the blowholes the rocks made when the waves came in. pretty incredible.
on the way back spent we some money on a beer at the only pub in town- it was a thursday night and we were the only ones there.

did a 3 day hike through a national park in the Nelson area. after a couple nights of drinking and hanging around nelson with a new german friend, i took off for abel tasman national park. the sights were amazing, and i had a lot of time to think and just be with me, and i liked it.

after hiking with my pack for four hours on the first day i was sitting on the beach writing in my journal and about 8 dolphins just started playing in the bay not far from where i was sitting. it was pretty great. hiked 38k- approx 23 miles. saw a island fur seal colony and a blue penguin swimming in the water.

then i went to live on an island.
there are no cars on the island and there's no road access.
lots of new experiences here: fed the chickens and collected eggs in the chicken coop, saw a sheep get shorn, saw a blue penguin up close, had the most delicious homemade fish and chips ever, went out on the dinghy to collect the fishing net, watched some forest fires (started on purpose), ran (okay, hiked) up lots of hills on the island, learned a bit more about gardening, and about me.
i told antonia that i was going for a run and her advice was: "watch out for pigs!" i actually ended up dodging more cows, sheep, and cow manure than i did pigs.

then i drove a four wheeler.

then i spent a couple days in wellington, NZ's capital, with the nicest couple. when they couldn't find any of their daughter's friends to take me out on the town, they decided to do it instead. awesome.

just left tauranga, on the east coast of the north island. i was helping the mom Wallis take care of her four girls while her husband is shearing sheep in norway and the girls are on vacation from school. they have alpacas and sheep and cows and a goat- not a large farm- 8 acres, but a happy home.


got to do yoga, run, drive a standard van on the left side of the road, make jewelry, go to the beach, hike... live.

the beach, the mountains, get to see the stars every night... bliss.

i'm currently back in wellington with what i feel like are my surrogate parents- they take good care of me... headed back to the south island to settle down and get a normal job and apartment and start a life.
anyway, there's all the logistics. and the truth is- i think i had forgotten what longer term travel brings out in me, and i like what it brings out in me. it's making me appreciate more and learn more and live in the moment more. i'm re-learning all the important lessons, and it feels right.
it's helping me get to know me better. lots of thoughts in this head of mine.






and... this may or may not be what i look like most of the time:


(i'm also wearing my new belgium socks...)